Celebrating Mercedes-Benz: 1900-1973 and all SLs

Upgrading a Gullwing: Curing 300SL “hotfoot syndrome”

Improvements to consider during your 300SL Gullwing or Roadster Restoration

Photography from Hahn and Woodward Auto Restoration

The Mercedes 300 SL Gullwings and Roadsters are among the most coveted and identifiable of all collector cars. Ideally, a concours quality restoration aims to bring these vehicles as close to original showroom condition as possible. Even with this goal in mind (and especially if you plan to use your car as a “driver”), there are some improvements you may want to consider that will make your prized machine more enjoyable without compromising its “showability”. Obviously, the best time to consider any upgrades is when the car is apart and undergoing a restoration.

So why, in an industry that places such a high premium on period correctness and originality, would a restoration shop even suggest upgrading anything? The answer is simple…it’s because there’s something out there that will work better than what was originally in the car. The fact is, there have been a lot of improvements in materials and processes in the last fifty years and there is no reason these cannot be incorporated into your car’s restoration.

The 300SL had its origin in the Mercedes racing program of the 50’s and is essentially a street version of the race car. Its tubular frame and lightweight aluminum cockpit can be traced directly to it’s racing heritage. Although extremely desirable in a race car, the single sheet of aluminum comprising most of the firewall and the floor pan makes these cars notoriously hot and noisy to drive. So, while you’re having your restoration performed, why not consider replacing the original bitumin anti-squeak and waffle pad insulation with a modern thermal-acoustic barrier?

 A thin section of heat reflective/resistant material has been applied to the outside of this section of the cockpit. It will prevent heat from entering the interior. It can be left “as is” or painted along with the rest of the car.

A thin section of heat reflective/resistant material has been applied to the outside of this section of the cockpit. It will prevent heat from entering the interior. It can be left “as is” or painted along with the rest of the car.

We’ve had good success utilizing a combination of heat/sound materials and fiberglass inserts. Another option that can be considered in addition to the thermal barrier, is to use modern heat resistant metals in place of the aluminum exhaust pipe tunnel. There are also heat reflective pads available that can be installed behind the exhaust downtube to shield the heat from the floorpan. In our experience, we have seen temperature reductions of 30 degrees or more on the floorpans which makes for a much more comfortable and quieter ride, especially for your passenger who may otherwise suffer from “300SL Hotfoot Syndrome”.

The interior portion of the panel has been outfitted with a thermal/acoustic material that will further reduce heat and noise. The pieces are fitted, trimmed and applied with adhesive. The entire area will be covered with carpet and upholstery for a nice uniform finish.

The interior portion of the panel has been outfitted with a thermal/acoustic material that will further reduce heat and noise. The pieces are fitted, trimmed and applied with adhesive. The entire area will be covered with carpet and upholstery for a nice uniform finish.

With the exception of the heat reflective pads on the exhaust pipe, virtually all of these upgrades are “under the skin,” or more precisely, under the rug. They take nothing away from the car’s value and showability, yet add much to the vehicle’s comfort – and your driving pleasure. Talk with your restoration shop about these and other ways you can make your car the ride of your dreams. If you have any questions about the enhancements we’ve suggested, please feel free to contact us at info@hahnandwoodward.com

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